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The content contained in this Good Roofing Guide article is for information purposed only. While every effort is made to ensure this article is accurate at the time of posting, JJ Roofing Supplies would recommend that you always seek to use a professional roofer for completing all roofing related jobs.

JJ Roofing Supplies will not accept liability for injury, loss or damage from the use of this content.

Videos

How to install a Duratech Centre-Pivot uPVC Roof Window

Duratech DVX M4A Centre Pivot Roof Window with Plain Tile Flashing Kit

Unboxing the window and fixing the brackets to the frame

Hi, I’m Chris from Duratech. I'm here today at JJ Roofing Supplies. We're going to be fitting an M4A PVC window, a 78 x 98cm, as you can see here. So if you look at the box, you'll see lower down what type of window it is, in this case being a PVC. Then this window being suitable for all roofing materials and between 15 and 90 degree pitch. Once you've opened the box, you'll notice that the handle is preinstalled. The instructions are here just in the back and the box with the brackets and the fixings is fastened onto the bottom. So once you've totally unboxed the window, flip it over onto its side and we're going to open it up. Once we've opened it up, we'll be able to get at the hinges which will then allow us to take the window onto the frame. The pins are located just here and all you have to do is press down, one at the top as well and this will then allow us to release the frame.

Once you have opened your box of fixings, you'll find four brackets, two packs of screws and a plastic packer. Next, you're going to come up to the brackets. You want to make sure the edge of the bracket sits 10cm down from the edge of the frame. Then using the self tacking screws which are the small ones. Then repeat the process for the other three brackets: two on the bottom, two on the top.

Fitting the sash to the frame and checking it's level

So the next thing you want to do is just bring the frame through. It's got four brackets that we put on earlier and there is a small lip on each one. Use that lip just to rest the frame onto the baton. Be sure to leave a 40 to 60mm tolerance either side of the frame. So now that the frame is in the correct position, we can start to fix it using the brackets and the screws provided. Don't quite wind these all the way in, as we will need to move the window around a little bit afterwards. Then repeat this for the other three brackets. Once you're happy that the frame is plump and level, finish screwing off your brackets and then we can bring the sash through. Now, we're just looking to guide the hinge into the frame. So then as you rotate the sash around, you'll hear the hinges click. And that's just them setting into place. Next, we just want to do the daylight test, so open it up, bring it back down slowly and then just check that the gap is consistent right the way along. Close the window back over and then just do the same again and just check that the gap is consistent up the side. So now that we're happy everything is square and level, I’m just going to open this back up and spin it around. We pop the buttons on the hinges. We can then take this back out and put it somewhere safe.

RUC Underfelt Collar

So next we're going to be installing the RUC under felt collar. It's sold separately to the roof window and it's designed to significantly reduce the installation time. Okay, so next we're going to pop the RUC under felt collar on. This will come rolled up. Once you have unravelled it, this will quite simply stretch around each corner. Now what we're going to do is just pull this back, just so we can loosen these batons off so we can tuck the collar underneath. This collar is really tough, so don't worry about tearing it. Now that's all the way through, we can secure the batons again. Now the bottom is done, we can just repeat the same for the top section. Now that the top of the RUC is secured, we're going to move onto the sides. What we're going to do is just cut a triangle. And then straight down the middle. This allows us to tuck it around and what we can do there is staple it onto the side of the baton. You want to do this for every baton on both sides of the window.

Bottom flashing piece

Now that the RUC collar is in, we're going to move onto the plain tile flashing kit.

Once again, you can see the size of the window, M4A, and also 78 x 98cm and it tells you that in centimetres. Okay, so now that we're moving onto the flashing kit, we can start with number one. You'll see each piece is labelled one to seven, and you just fit them in sequence. It's the first one on the base. And by using the number two piece, you’ll be able to secure both of those in at the same time. You can just use number two to secure both of them by pushing the plastic pins into the frame, one on both sides. And that will then hold one and two in for you while you go and get your screws. So the screws that come with it, you'll notice they're all the same colour as the flashing kit. That’s just so you get a nice consistent finish. Now, you'll notice for training purposes that there is a slight gap here. That’s just because we haven’t put an eaves course on. Normally it would be up flush.

Side flashing piece

So here we have the box of soakers. They are all individual ones for the type of tiles that we're using. You'll notice that there's two different ones. A 3.1 and a 3.2. 3.1 has a different angle under it, so its much shallower and that's for more of an intermediate tile just at the base whereas 3.2 emulates the angle of the tile going up the roof. Now we come to our tile and a half, pop that on there and then what we're going to do is use our 3.1 soaker just to space that out for us. We can pop our first screw in. Then take that away and put the rest in. Worth mentioning that don't worry about puncturing this as it will be covered by the next tile anyway.

Now that your tile and a half is secure, just grab your 3.1, slide that down there so it's flush at the bottom and you'll notice a small flap. Just bend that over and that will keep it secure for you. So now that we've put our plain tile layer in, all we need to do is just get these fixed and then we can repeat the layers for the rest of the frame. So now we're going to fit a tile and a half, this time showing you just where the soaker needs to sit which is flush with the bottom and the side. Then drop that all in together. And that will actually give us our spacing anyway. So now all we're going to do is fold these tabs over to help us secure the soaker in place. So once you reach your top layer, you may have to snip this soaker, just to ensure everything is going to be flat. So all we do... Then you bring that over, and get it out of the way. Once you have finished your tiling; we have only done the one side, just for training purposes. All you need to do is grab your number four, and you can tell which way around it's supposed to go because the grey tab needs to be at the top. Just place that on the side, with a bit of overhang at the bottom. Slide it up and just line it up with your screw hole and then start fixing it in and if you hold the rubber back, it won't trap anything. So now that we've put number four in on both sides, we can see that all the tabs and the soakers are all covered so it's a nice, neat finish. Then we're going to use number five. This is quite simple. Just grip number four, just to pull it round and then you can see there is a hole here. Slide it up and then screw and it can go straight in. Then once again, repeat for the other side.

Top flashing piece and re-attaching the sash

So moving onto number six, this one is quite easy. It just goes on the top. You’ll notice there's two screw holes. There's one from the number four and then from this, and this goes straight through the pair of them. Last but not least, number seven. This one is the hood and it just goes over the top, so what you want to do is we're going to check both sides and make sure that this tab goes through the small slot there on either side. And once it's over, just give it a little push just to clip it on. And then all we do is we just push the tab over, securing it. Finally, what we're going to do is bring the sash through, fix it into the frame, just being mindful of these extra covering parts as a result of it, and now that's ready to bring it through. What we're aiming to do now is fit the hinges one at a time. Okay, so now all we want to do is guide these into the hinge one at a time. As those two go in, all you do is bring it around. You'll hear two clicks and all that's left to do is take the wax strips off the front... And that is our window and flashing kit fully installed.


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